
SOUTHEAST ASIA REVISITED
Henry and Holly Jobe
TRIP DATES: Nov. 20-Dec. 7, 2007
Nov. 20: Leave Newark on Singapore Air #0021 at 11:00pm to Singaore.
Nov. 21: Transit
Nov. 22: Arriving in Singapore at 6:40amTo get a sense of the ethnic mix this afternoon, you will stop in Kampong Glam. This is the traditional seat ofMalay Royalty. Visiting the historical Sultan Mosque, you will gain an insight into local Islamic practices. Hereyou can also visit a traditional Moslem goods shop.From Kampong Glam, you will continue on to Little India, where you will be bombarded with the colorful sights,exciting sounds, and fragrant smells of Singapore’s bustling Indian enclave. Here you will learn about Indian bodydecorations, enjoy a “pottu” for a souvenir, and, should you wish, beautify yourself with a washable henna tattoo. Incontrast to the Mosque, you will visit a temple and get a sense of Hindu philosophy and practices.Next you can get a sense of modern and colonial Singapore. You can first pay a visit to the Botanic Gardens, witha special stop at the National Orchid Garden. Here you can surround yourselves with a lush tropical landscape andescape from the noise of the city.Leaving the gardens, you can drive through the Civic District and the Esplanade. This last section will give you asense of Singapore’s early colonial roots. The day will end with a stroll along the riverfront, where you can take inthe breathtaking views of the cityscape against the evening sky.
HISTORY of Singapore
1700 years ago, the island of P’u Luo Chung existed off of the tip of the Malay Peninsula, straddling one of theworld’s richest trade routes. Over time, the name changed to Temasek, Singapura, and, now, Singapore. The actualname “Singapura” or “Lion City” was bestowed on the island by the King of Palembang, Sri Tri Buana, who wasshipwrecked on the island during a fierce storm. His eyes fell on a strange creature with a red body, black head, andwhite breast, and he asked his aides what this could possibly be. One of his aides suggested it was a lion, hence thename “Singapura”.The island always thrived as a key point on the East-West trade route, and evolved into a valuable piece of realestate. Over time, the island was invaded by the Chola kings of India, the Thais, and the Javanese (the last greatHindu rulers and the first to try and unite the entire Malay Archipelago into a single political entity). By the end ofthe 14th century, however, the Javanese Majaparhit Empire had disintegrated and the island all but vanished from thehistory books for the next 400 years.In 1811, a 30-year-old British East India Company official, Sir Thomas Stamford Bingley Raffles, became theLieutenant Governor of Java. Fearing that the Dutch would threaten British trading hegemony in the area, heconvinced Lord Hastings, Governor General of India, to let him establish a settlement in the area from which theBritish could secure the Straits of Malacca. On January 29, 1819, Raffles landed in Singapore. Less than a monthlater, he got permission to establish a British trading post in Singapore.By 1867, the Straits Settlements became a Crown Colony, and by 1903, the island was the world’s 7th biggest port.The 20th century prior to WWII was a blend of colonial aristocratic British/European life blended with a hugelyvaried and colorful number of different races speaking many different languages. Famous inhabitants included,Joseph Conrad, Rudyard Kippling, James Michner, Herman Hesse, Noel Coward, and, most notably, SomersetMaugham.Then came World War II. The day after the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor; Japanese aircraft raided Singapore andbegan marching down the Malay Peninsula. When Percival surrendered Singapore to Yamashita, Churchill called itthe “worst disaster and the largest capitulation in British History”.The Japanese reign of terror gave birth to a sense of nationalism on the island. When the British returned at the endof the war, they set up separate Crown Colonies in Malaysia and Singapore and allowed for popular elections in thecountry. Nevertheless, the movement for complete independence had taken root, and in 1959, the British Parliamentapproved a Singaporean constitution and in June of 1959, Lee Kuan Yew became Singapore’s first Prime Minister.
Nov. 23: This morning, you can see a part of Singapore that is not always visited by tourists, and presents a marked contrast to Singapore’s modern environment. You can take a ferry boat over to Pulau Ubin (Ubin Island), perhaps the last stronghold of Old Singapore and a place that has been left behind by the development on the main island. Here you can find a pastoral tapestry of sandy roads, prawn farms, abandoned rubber plantations and coconut groves. There are vast tracts of secondary jungle and mangrove swamps that support a wide variety of wildlife – flying fox, monitor lizards, and many different sea birds. Here you will catch a glimpse of the old Chinese and Malay communities, visit a local hut, and get a sense of what Singapore was in the 1950’s with its kampongsor villages.
Lunch will be at Changi Village, where you can enjoythe choicest and freshest catch of the day.
Mid-afternoon, you can return to the hotel to rest.In the evening, with a group, you will do a special 2-hour night walk in Chinatown to explore the “Secrets of the Red Lantern”. Here you will discover the vice and tragedy in the shadows of Chinatown – once home to seedy opium and gambling and where entertainment in its rawest form is still practiced today.This is a historical tour of prostitution in Singapore, and has been nominated as the best educational tour experience by the tourism board.
Nov. 24: This morning you will catch Silk Air to Phnom Penh.Phnom Penh is relatively new as the capital of Cambodia, replacing Angkor. By the end of the 16th century, theemphasis in Cambodia had become more and more focused on maritime trade with Southeast Asia, rendering Angkorunsuitable as a capital for the country. Located at the confluence of the Mekong and the Tonle Sap rivers, PhnomPenh could control the riverine trade from Laos, fish and pottery trade from the Tonle area, as well as goods from theMekong area, particularly from China. Moreover, culturally, there also seems to have been a shift from the power of the elite Angkor population to the less brahmanical and more cosmopolitan elite centered around Phnom Penh.
Nov. 25: This morning, you will pay a very special visit to the Apsara Foundation. The aim of the foundation is to educatepoor Cambodian children to become professional dancers and musicians, and simultaneously conserve Cambodianarts and culture. During the Khmer Rouge period, most of the dancers, artists, writers, and intellectuals in Cambodiawere killed by the government. As such, there is a tremendous need to re-educate the people and revive the culturalheritage of the country. At the same time, Cambodia is a desperately poor country, and Apsara provides youngchildren with the much needed possibility of earning a livelihood.Lunch will be at a very special restaurant run by street children.After lunch, you can stop at the National Museum, built in1917, one of the most striking Khmer buildings in Phnom Penhand a repository of the Kingdom’s cultural wealth. Here youcan see a preview of and read about the treasures you will seethe next few days in Siem Reap. In addition to the museum,you will visit the Royal Palace, built in 1866 by KingNorodom, with its magnificent Silver Pagoda containing 5,000silver floor tiles. Late in the day, you can visit the RussianMarket.
Nov. 26: This morning, you will drive out into the countryside to Battambang. Along the way, you will stop at Udong, thecapital of Cambodia from the early 17th century until 1866, when the capital was moved to Phnom Penh. There arethree beautiful hills covered by temples and stupas. You can stop and enjoy these sites that are rarely visited by tourists. Continuing on, you can stop at several villages where silverware is being manufactured. When you arrive inBattambang, you will overnight at a tastefully restored old colonial villa with only six rooms.
Nov. 27: Today you can explore the area around Battambang, a pleasant city with tree-lined streets, a colonial feel, and a laidback atmosphere. There are several interesting temples and ruins in the nearby surroundings. Wat Ek Phnom,located about eight kilometers from Battambang, is the largest and was probably the most extravagant of the temples.Atop Phnom Banan, is the ruin of Wat Banan, offering magnificent views of the surrounding plains. Also nearby isPhnom Sampeau, the site of the “Killing Caves”, where there is an intriguing Khmer Rouge memorial, as well as aninteresting temple on the top of the hill.To top off the day, you can take a fascinating ride on the famous bamboo train.
Nov. 28: After an early breakfast, you will transfer to the pier, and take the public boat to Siem Reap. This picturesque boat trip will take you along the Sangke River to the Tonle Sap Lake, the largest freshwater floodplain lake in the world.It increases and decreases in size annually from 3000 sq. km. at the peak of the dry season in May, to 12,000 sq. km.in the wet season in October. Note that this is a very simple boat, and a true cultural experience. Be sure that your luggage is packed so that important things are in plastic and nothing really fragile is there. Occasionally, travelers may sit on the bags. The boat ride will take about 6 hours.The lake is the last breeding stronghold in Southeast Asia for anumber of globally threatened large water birds, particularlypelicans, storks, and ibis. You will pass Preak Toal, which isthe first protected bird sanctuary in Cambodia.Disembarking at Chong Kneas, you will transfer to Siem Reap.
Siem Ream
Siem Reap is the cultural home of the Khmer people and one ofthe ancient wonders of the world. This vast network of Wats,dating back to the 7th century, is the center of some of the most important structures, statues, and carvings producedin the name of the Buddhist and Hindu religions. First rediscovered by Western archeologists in the late 19thcentury, the "lost city of Angkor" was recently re-opened to foreigners.The whole area is a model of the Hindu universe, where construction was designed to create harmony betweenmankind and the gods. Each of the temples must be visualized as a three-dimensional mandala, or representation ofthe Hindu (and later, the Buddhist) universe. The central shrines are Kailas, the Abode of Shiva, or Mt. Meru, thecenter of the world to the Buddhists. Cloisters and side chapels are both homes for the protector deities, as well asexternal envelopes of the cosmic reality. Moats are the seven sacred, concentric oceans surrounding the holymountain in the center. As you walk across the causeways and up and down the many stairways of the temples, youneed to think of yourself as a pilgrim, working your way to the center of the world and the home of the supremedeity.Today, when you are ready, you will begin with visits to the Bayon Temple, the Terrace of Elephants, TheTerrace of the Leper King, Preah Palilay, The Royal Enclosure, Baphuan, and Phimaan Akas. By this time,you will be ready to return to the hotel for lunch and a rest.In the afternoon, you can visit Pre Rup, Bantey Samre, Ta Prohm, and Preah Khan. Here at Preah Khan theWorld Monuments Fund has an interesting exposition. On the way back to Siem Reap, you can stop at theKrouasah Thmel School. This school for deaf-mute children houses an excellent exhibition about the Tonle SapLake.
Nov. 29: This morning, you will drive out to the unique and charming jungle temple of Banteay Srei, also called “The Citadel of Women”. Built by a "learned Brahmin" by the name of Yajnavaraha, Banteay Srei is dedicated to Shiva as theGreat Lord of the Three Worlds, or Tribhuvanamahesvara. Constructed from pink sandstone, the temple is designedto become smaller and smaller as one approaches the main sanctuary, forcing the pilgrim to bend down more andmore to squeeze through the narrow doors. The décor of the temples is the most refined in the Angkor complex, atour de force of sculptures and carvings. Not only are the gods shown in various poses, but you also find depicted,for the first time, local people at various times in their lives – fighting, meditating, walking through forests, and thelike.From Banteay Srei, you will continue on to visit the jungle enshrouded river of Kbal Spean. The riverbed here iscarved out with hundreds of lingams and Angkorian figures. You will enjoy a picnic lunch, catered by the hotel, at awaterfall in the river.The afternoon is devoted to a visit of the main temple, Angkor Wat, as well as a sunset view from the top ofBakheng Mount. Angkor Wat is the only temple at Angkor that can be attributed with certainty to Suryavarman II(1113-1144). The entire Wat covers an area of 200 hectares, surrounded by a moat. The iconography is dedicatedto Vishnu. All over the lintels, pillars, and pediments are carvings of the god, his incarnations (avatars), and thelegends about his descents to earth as human or animal. In essence, Angkor Wat has been described as the “epitomeof the mountain-temple, a veritable Meru whose five summits rise to a height of over sixty meters.”In the evening, you will watch a performance of Cambodian dancing.
Nov. 30: This morning, you will visit the Roluos group of temples, one of the oldest open to visitors. Following the templeTravel to Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and arrive in Kuching.
Dec 1: Kuching, Sarawak, Maylasia (on Borneo)Breakfast at hotel 0900 hrs Meet by guide at hotel lobby, depart for about 45 minutes drive to Damai visit to Sarawak Cultural Village – wander around the ethnic villages and join the local in their daily village activities and cultural show at the village theater. Tour continue for Cat museum and Kuching City Tour. You can see all the places of interest around this historical riverine capital of Sarawak. The Fort Magherita – 1880, the Colonial Law Courts, the Square and Round Tower, Charles Brooke Memorial Monument, the Astana, - 1870 was the former palace of the White Rajahs. The Tua Pek Kong Oldest Chinese Temple, - 1876, Civic Center, tours also pass through Malay traditional houses built on stilted. Finally the highlight of the tour will be visit to one of the best museum in South East Asia, the treasure houses of Sarawak archaeological cultural artifacts- the Sarawak Museum.
Dec. 2: 0900 hrs Depart for 2 Days 1 Night Bako National Park Tour. About 45 minutes drive from Kuching to Bako Jetty and about 30 minutes boat ride to Bako National Park. Registered and check in to Park Hostel. Explore the park with our guide the rich fauna and flora, beach. Lunch dinner at park canteen and overnight at Park Hostel.
Dec. 3: Breakfast at canteen. Explore the park with our guide.1100 hrs Check out from Park Hostel. Return to Kuching via the same way and recheck in to Harbour View hotel.
Dec. 4: 0815 hrs Depart for Semenggoh Orang Utan Wildlife center- about 30 minutes drive from Kuching to the center. Explore the center. Return to Kuching via the same way with stopover at Pottery factory.1700 hrs Kuching Waterfront for Sarawak Sunset Cruise.
Dec 5: Visit Farm in Seri, Sarwark
Dec. 6: This morning, you will head back to the airport to catch Silk Air to Singapore. Overnight atthe airport hotel.
Dec. 7: This morning transfer to the airport for your flight to Newark on Singapore Air